How to Identify Authentic Chikankari: A Connoisseur’s Guide
Share
Introduction: In a market flooded with lookalikes, knowing how to distinguish real Chikankari from machine-made versions is crucial—especially for collectors, patrons of fine textiles, and those seeking true heritage value. Here’s a refined guide to help you spot authentic Chikankari with confidence.
1. Look at the Reverse Side - Authentic Chikankari has a clear signature: the reverse side of the fabric will never be as neat as the front. Unlike machine embroidery, where backs are smooth and uniform, hand Chikankari reveals irregular knots and threads.
2. The Imperfect Charm of Handcrafted Stitches - Handmade Chikankari will always show slight variations in stitch size, angle, and spacing. These are not flaws but evidence of human artistry. Uniform, overly perfect stitches are telltale signs of machine work.
3. Types of Stitches to Look For - Traditional Chikankari uses over 30 types of stitches. Some of the most revered include:
Bakhiya (shadow work)
Phanda (knot work)
Keel Kangan (flower buds)
Jaali (net work) – created with extreme precision and often impossible to replicate by machine
4. Fabric Selection - Authentic Chikankari is typically done on breathable, natural fabrics like mulmul, cotton, chiffon, georgette, or silk. These allow the needle to glide, maintaining the delicacy of the stitch. Machine versions are often found on synthetic blends.
5. Pricing as a Clue - True Chikankari is labor-intensive. If a garment with heavy embroidery is priced too low, it's likely not handmade. Every stitch in authentic Chikankari takes time, skill, and care—making it a luxury craft.
6. Source from Trusted Artisans or Labels - Brands like CLOHT work directly with traditional artisans in Lucknow, ensuring that every piece is genuinely handcrafted. Always check for transparency in sourcing and artisan stories.
CLOHT's Assurance of Authenticity - Every CLOHT piece comes with details about its craft origin, artisan lineage, and time taken to create. We celebrate imperfection as beauty and embrace the fray that defines real handwork.